Cashmere Quality Standards and Authentication
topic
International quality standards: fibre diameter mean ≤19.0 μm, coefficient of variation ≤24%, medullated fibre content ≤3%, and guard hair content ≤5% by weight (per IWTO-8 specifications). Quality grades: Grade A (14-15.5 μm, ultra-fine, extremely rare), Grade B (15.5-16.5 μm, fine, premium products), Grade C (16.5-19 μm, standard commercial). Testing methods: OFDA (Optical Fibre Diameter Analyser), Sirolan-Laserscan for diameter measurement, and microscopy for medulla/guard hair assessment. Concerns: widespread adulteration with wool, yak down, synthetic fibres—DNA testing and near-infrared spectroscopy for authentication.
Role
Quality standards critical for market integrity as cashmere commands premium pricing ($200-400/kg processed vs. wool $10-20/kg), with diameter being primary price determinant and authentication essential to combat widespread fraud (estimated 30-50% of 'cashmere' products contain undeclared fibre substitution).