Cashmere Fibre Structure and Properties
topic
Cashmere structure: similar α-keratin to wool but finer diameter (14-19 μm vs. Merino 17-23 μm), smoother scale structure (6-9 scales per 100 μm vs. 7-12 for wool—contributing to soft handle), minimal or no medulla, moderate crimp (2-5 crimps/cm vs. wool 5-15). Properties: tenacity 1.0-1.5 g/den, elongation 30-40%, moisture regain 14-16%, density 1.31 g/cm³, thermal insulation coefficient 8× sheep wool weight-for-weight due to fine diameter creating more air pockets. Softness measured by handle-o-meter: cashmere 40-60 units vs. fine Merino 80-100 (lower = softer).
Role
Exceptional fineness combined with smooth scale structure provides cashmere's signature soft handle and luxurious drape, while creating processing challenges—delicate fibres easily damaged (5-10% fibre breakage during processing vs. 2-5% for wool), requiring gentle mechanical handling and limiting blending ratios in yarns.