Fibre Identification and Composition Testing
category
Fibre identification testing determines the fibre type, blend composition, and origin of textile materials through microscopy, thermal analysis, chemical dissolution, FTIR spectroscopy, and DNA analysis methods — essential for care labelling compliance, customs classification, blend verification, and sustainability certification. EU Textile Labelling Regulation 1007/2011 mandates accurate fibre composition labelling (±3% tolerance per fibre component >5%) on all textile products sold in Europe — non-compliance triggers customs seizure and fines of €5,000–50,000. Microscopy (ISO 11087, cross-sectional and longitudinal fibre identification): cotton (kidney-shaped cross-section, convolutions in longitudinal view), wool (circular cross-section with scale structure), silk (triangular cross-section), polyester (circular or trilobal, no scale), viscose (serrated cross-section) — provides definitive identification of 30+ fibre types. Chemical dissolution (BISFA agreed methods, ISO 1833 series, 25+ chemical protocols): hot 75% H₂SO₄ dissolves cotton but not polyester (PES/Co blend analysis); Dimethylformamide dissolves acrylic leaving polyester; formic acid dissolves nylon leaving polyester — quantitative blend analysis requires sequential dissolution and weighing. Quantitative blend analysis by chemical dissolution (ISO 1833-1): weigh fabric → remove component A with solvent → dry and reweigh → calculate component A% from mass loss corrected for correction factor d (accounting for solvent attack on residue).
Role
Fibre identification and composition testing is the consumer protection and regulatory compliance foundation of the global textile labelling system — accurate blend composition testing prevents the systematic mislabelling of cheaper synthetic fibres as more expensive natural fibres that is the most prevalent form of textile fraud, protecting $200 billion in annual natural fibre product sales from deceptive substitution.