Jacquard Harness and Mail Size Selection
topic
Jacquard harness selection specifies mail eyelet size matching warp yarn diameter for smooth thread passage, harness cord count per centimetre matching warp sett, and harness neck arrangement determining which Jacquard hooks serve which warp positions according to the design repeat assignment, with large-capacity Jacquard machines using single-end control of every warp end independently and smaller-capacity machines using multiple-end control where groups of ends share one hook for pattern-symmetric fabric constructions.
Role
Ensures mechanical compatibility between the Jacquard machine and the warp yarn and sett through proper harness specification, with mail eyelet size being particularly critical for preventing the yarn wear from incorrect sized eyes that is a primary cause of warp breaks in Jacquard weaving, and with hook-to-end assignment determining whether the full design freedom of single-end control or the production economy of grouped-end control is used for each fabric construction.