Life Cycle Assessment and Environmental Cost Economics
topic
Life cycle assessment (LCA) economics in textiles quantifies the environmental impact and associated monetary cost of each production stage from raw material extraction through end-of-life disposal — providing the environmental cost internalisation framework required for true-cost accounting, green procurement, and carbon footprint certification. Textile LCA scope (ISO 14040/44 framework): cradle-to-gate (raw material extraction to factory gate — most common for material comparison); cradle-to-grave (full lifecycle including consumer use and disposal — required for EU Digital Product Passport); gate-to-gate (single process stage — dyehouse, spinning mill). Impact categories: global warming potential GWP (kg CO₂e), water depletion (m³), land use (m²·year), eutrophication (kg PO₄e), human toxicity — reported per functional unit (1 kg yarn, 1 m² fabric, 1 garment, 1 wear occasion). Key textile LCA data: conventional cotton T-shirt (170 g) cradle-to-grave: GWP 5.5–7.0 kg CO₂e per garment (cotton cultivation 30%, dyeing 25%, consumer washing 28%, transport 8%, disposal 9%); polyester T-shirt: GWP 4.0–5.5 kg CO₂e (PET resin 55%, dyeing 20%, consumer use 15%, others 10%). Carbon cost monetisation (IPCC social cost of carbon $51–200/tonne CO₂e, EU ETS $60–90/tonne): cotton T-shirt carbon cost $0.33–0.63 (at $60–90/tonne SCC) — internal carbon price $0.50–0.80/garment now used by Patagonia, H&M Group for internal capital allocation. Higg Materials Sustainability Index (MSI, Sustainable Apparel Coalition): material environmental score combining GWP, water, chemistry, fossil fuel depletion into composite 0–100 score — conventional cotton MSI 98 (high impact), organic cotton MSI 62 (37% lower), recycled polyester rPET MSI 52 (versus virgin PET MSI 44 — note: virgin PET lower than conventional cotton), lyocell MSI 28 (lowest impact closed-loop cellulosic). LCA uncertainty: ±20–40% uncertainty in agricultural stage data (cotton yield variability, fertiliser application rates), ±15–25% in consumer use stage (wash temperature, wash frequency assumptions) — critical for interpretation of close MSI scores between materials.
Role
LCA economics provides the environmental impact quantification data that is rapidly becoming mandatory for sustainable product claims, EU Digital Product Passport compliance, and science-based targets — with the Higg MSI becoming the industry standard material impact scorecard for 80% of major brands, LCA data literacy is now the essential sustainability analytics skill for textile product developers, material buyers, and sustainability managers navigating the transition from voluntary to mandatory environmental disclosure.