Mohair Fibre Structure and Properties
topic
Mohair structure: α-keratin composition similar to wool but smooth elliptical scales (half the height of wool scales, 0.4-0.6 μm vs. 0.8-1.0 μm—contributing to luster and smoothness), minimal crimp (1-3 crimps/cm vs. wool 5-15), single cortex structure (vs. wool bilateral cortex—no differential swelling, hangs straighter), often no medulla in finer grades. Properties: tenacity 1.4-1.8 g/den (stronger than wool), elongation 25-35%, elastic recovery 95% at 5% extension, moisture regain 14-16%, density 1.30 g/cm³, high luster (refractive index 1.54-1.56), excellent dye affinity, flame resistant (LOI 27-28%).
Role
Smooth scale structure provides mohair's signature luster ('diamond fibre') and smooth hand while reducing felting propensity (scales less prominent), single cortex eliminates bilateral structure giving straighter drape, and higher strength than wool enables blending to enhance durability in wool-mohair suitings and upholstery.
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