Pigment Print Colour Fastness Testing
topic
Pigment print fastness testing assesses the retention of pigment-binder film on fabric surface under mechanical and chemical stress — the dominant performance limitation of pigment printing compared to dye-based methods. Pigment print washing fastness (ISO 105-C06, condition A1S, 40°C, 30 min, 10 balls): printed area colour change grade 3–4 (good for standard acrylic binder) — binder crosslink density determines wash fastness: inadequately crosslinked binder (undercured or incorrect hardener ratio) gives grade 2–3 (binder swells in water, allowing pigment detachment). Rubbing fastness of pigment prints (ISO 105-X12, dry grade 4–5, wet grade 3–4): wet rubbing most challenging — binder film softens slightly in water, increasing pigment transfer to rubbing cloth; heavy pigment loading (>50 g/m²) reduces wet crocking by 0.5–1.0 grade due to surface pigment not fully penetrated by binder. Elongation of pigment print film (relevant for stretch substrate printing): standard acrylic binder elongation 20–30% (insufficient for stretch jerseys extending 50–80% — binder cracks on stretching, causing print cracking and wash-off degradation after 5–10 wash cycles); polyurethane (PU) binder elongation 150–300% (suitable for stretch printing — maintains grade 3–4 washing after 20 wash cycles at 40% substrate extension). Pigment print light fastness (ISO 105-B02, xenon arc): organic pigment (azo pigment, phthalocyanine) grade 5–6; inorganic pigment (titanium dioxide white, iron oxide) grade 7–8 — pigment selection for outdoor applications must prioritise light fastness over colour range. Binder film cracking accelerated test (AATCC TM130 adapted: fabric flexed 1,000 cycles at −10°C cold flex test — simulates winter garment handling): PU binder at −10°C retains film integrity; standard acrylic binder cracks below −5°C (glass transition temperature issue — Tg of acrylic binder 5–15°C, below ambient use temperature causing brittleness).
Role
Pigment print fastness testing is the quality control foundation for the largest single print technology in global textile production — with pigment printing representing over 50% of all printed fabric volume and binder wash durability being the most commercially sensitive quality parameter, fastness testing data drives binder selection, curing parameter optimisation, and print paste formulation decisions that determine whether printed garments maintain their design integrity over the consumer-expected 20–30 home wash service life.