Suiting and Coating Dobby Constructions
topic
Worsted and woollen dobby suiting fabrics use 12 to 24 shaft constructions producing herringbone, diamond twill, houndstooth, and complex twill derivative patterns in wool, wool-polyester, and wool-viscose yarn systems, with the dobby enabling the pattern variety required for seasonal suiting collections without the Jacquard investment that the repeat-limited geometric patterns of suiting design do not justify, and with coating weights using heavier yarns in 8 to 16 shaft dobby constructions for traditional overcoating patterns.
Role
Serves the premium menswear and womenswear suiting market with the geometric patterned fabrics that constitute the majority of traditional tailored clothing where herringbone, diamond, and twill derivative patterns are the enduring design vocabulary, with dobby weaving being the appropriate technology for these designs whose geometric regularity and shaft-count-compatible repeat widths make them ideal applications for the 16 to 24 shaft range of commercial dobby looms.