Warp Knit Structures and Properties
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Structural characteristics: Directional stretch—width stretch limited (5-15% without elastane, vs. 40-60% weft knit) due to warp constraint, length stretch moderate (10-25%), creating more stable fabric. Run-resistance—if yarn breaks, damage propagates along course (horizontal) not wale (vertical), unlike weft knit where run propagates vertically creating extensive damage, making warp knit suitable for sheer fabrics, hosiery. Cover factor—calculated from lapping pattern, gauge, yarn count, typical 0.7-0.9 for closed fabrics, 0.3-0.6 for open structures. Curl tendency—minimal to none (balanced loop structure on both sides) vs. significant curl in weft jersey. Fabric asymmetry—face and reverse usually different appearance (technical face showing underlaps, technical reverse showing overlaps), aesthetic face determined by design. Dimensional stability—superior to weft knits (shrinkage typically <2-3% after heat-setting), good shape retention, minimal distortion under normal use. Mechanical properties: tensile strength higher in warp direction (yarn direction) 200-800 N/5cm typical, tear strength moderate, abrasion resistance good, dependent on structure compactness.
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