Zweigle Multi-Distance Hairiness Classification
topic
Zweigle G567 hairiness tester provides multi-threshold hairiness classification by counting the number of fibres protruding beyond reference distances of 1, 2, 3, 4, 6, 8, 10, and 12 mm per 100 m of yarn — giving a complete hairiness length distribution profile versus the single H index from USTER Tester 6. Measurement principle: yarn travels at 50 m/min through an optical measuring head (LED illumination, CCD array detector, 1 mm spacing optical reference gratings) counting individual fibre crossings at each distance threshold. Key threshold values by application: S1 (>1 mm protruding fibres per 100 m): standard ring Ne 30 S1 = 4,000–8,000; S2 (>2 mm): S2 = 500–1,500; S3 (>3 mm, long hairs most significant for pilling and weavability): S3 = 50–300; S4 (>4 mm): S4 = 10–80. Pilling risk classification by S3: S3 < 100/100 m = low pilling risk (premium knitwear acceptable); S3 100–300 = moderate pilling risk (standard knit acceptable); S3 > 500 = high pilling risk (fabric finishing required — singeing or enzyme treatment to reduce surface hairiness). Singeing effect (gas flame at 800–1,200°C, 60–100 m/min, 2 burner passes): reduces S3 from 300 to 40–80 per 100 m on woven fabric — singeing before dyeing essential for fine cotton shirting anti-pilling performance. Hairiness uniformity (CV% of S1 count per 10 m sections): CV% > 25% indicates traveller wear pattern (high-hairiness spindles at end-of-life traveller requiring replacement), drafting zone problems (intermittent high-hairiness from drafting wave), or package structure problems (outer layers high hairiness from winding tension variation).
Role
Zweigle multi-distance hairiness classification provides the complete long-hair distribution data that USTER H index alone cannot supply — S3 count is the technically superior predictor of pilling propensity because long fibres (>3 mm) are those that entangle into pills during fabric abrasion, making S3 per 100 m the most discriminating hairiness specification for premium knitwear and woven shirting applications requiring anti-pilling performance.